Brewing, like any other
business, is conducted in a rather strange fashion in Japan. Until recently,
you couldn’t open a brewery in Japan unless said brewery began production at
a level of 2 million barrels per year. That’s a lot of beer, and it’s quite
a risk to establish a new business not knowing whether you’ll get stuck
sitting on a million or so cases of unsold beer.
This law, like many in Japan, was designed to protect the large established
brewers such as Sapporo and Kirin. Import laws were similarly crafted. I
recall in the mid eighties talking with a Portland, Maine brewer who was
trying to sell his beer in Japan. The Japanese had maintained at the time
that one reason why they ran such huge trade surpluses with the United
States was the inferiority of American goods. That certainly wasn’t the case
with our beer, as this brewer’s beer, Portland Lager, was a delicious
Vienna-style lager that was far more flavorful than the beers the Japanese
were sending us here in the States.
The kicker was that at the time the US tariff on Japanese beer was 10 cents
a case, while the Japanese tariff on a case of US micro beer was about $25.
Hey, I’m a Bruguru, not a Tradeguru, but I just don’t buy that inferiority
argument.
Fortunately, the brewery size restriction was lifted in Japan in 1994. Even
before that, however, excellent beer was being brewed here. Sapporo, brewers
of Yebisu, operate a beer garden on the site of their original brewery that
produces a variety of styles including an excellent Schwarzbier, Scotch ale,
Altbier, and Pilsner.
Yebisu Stout Draft is a classic Japanese beer that is brewed with German
hops and resembles a Dortmunder Export. The beer has been brewed since 1887
and one should not be surprised at its European character, since the Dutch
traded extensively with the Japanese during the 19th century and German
culture was venerated here during World War II. Yebisu is sold here in the
United States in 16 ounce bottles and is brewed in Japan, rather than being
contract brewed in North America as some Japanese beers are.
Yebisu Stout Draft pours to a cloudy golden color with light, fizzy
carbonation and a very malty nose. The palate is very rich and surprisingly
full-bodied; this is no light Japanese lager but a very respectable and
malty brew. The finish is quite bitter too and makes the beer very
drinkable. This is an excellent beer to be sure, well balanced and very
flavorful. I enjoyed it tonight not with Japanese cuisine but rather with
Mexican, homemade tostadas with beans and rice. Yebisu was an excellent
companion to the meal, and has enough body to stand up to any food in my
estimation.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft
(G)=Growler