Alan D. Eames
has been called the Indiana Jones of beer, and for good reason. He has
dedicated his life to traveling the world in search of rare and obscure
beers. Beer enthusiasts may have heard of one his more celebrated ventures,
Flag Porter, a beer made with yeast from bottles of beer that had sat
beneath the waves in a sunken ship for more than 100 years.
Eames’ wife, Anne Latchis, is one of the founders of Amazon Imports,
the Vermont company that brings Xingu Black Beer into the United
States. Truth be told, Xingu was actually the couple’s own concoction,
specially brewed for export from Brazil to America; later, distribution was
expanded to Canada and Europe.
I took these notes on 8/31/1999:
Brewed and bottled by Cervejaria Independente, Toledo, PR. Brazil. Imported by Amazon, Inc. Brattleboro Vermont, home of legendary beer adventurer Alan D. Eames (whose wife Anne Latchis is behind this beer as I recall).
I have enjoyed this beer in 22oz. bottles in the past, this is the first
time I've seen them in 12oz. bottles, though in singles only. Beer pours to
a deep black color with a creamy tan head and appetizing grassy-chicory
nose. Palate is slightly coffeeish, buttery and astringent with subtle
licorice and a slightly sour finish. A very nice beer to be sure.
Xingu (pronounced shin-goo) is supposedly based on a dark form of native
beer called chicha. Chicha was usually made from corn that was
masticated by native women brewers, who then spat the ground grain into a
vessel full of water. Wild yeasts in the air would spontaneously ferment the
resulting mash, and voila, you had beer. Eames implies dark versions of this
brew were made with roasted corn. From Amazon’s website:
The search began in Brazil where Eames insisted the best examples of
black beer could be found. The earliest Western account of black beer brewed
by the natives of the Amazon region dates to 1557. Many Amazon Indian tribes
placed great spiritual significance on black beer as a beverage used in
religious and social ceremonies. This primitive brewing was done with dark
roasted corn or manioc root, fermentation being initiated by wild yeast.
That Brazil is home to the best examples of black beer is debatable. Many
would argue that Germany’s Schwarzbiers hold claim to that title, and
in fact Xingu has more in common with them than it does a native Brazilian
black beer. That’s because Xingu is a bottom-fermented, Reinheitsgebot
compliant lager made with barley, hops, yeast, water, and nothing else.
Ironically, most beers are looked down upon by beer geeks when they include
corn in the grain bill. Xingu, however, would have been more authentic and
interesting if it actually included some. An attempt to reproduce a black
chicha would be unique and welcome, indeed.
That said, Xingu is still a delicious beer deserving of much praise in its
own right. A bit sweeter than a traditional Schwarzbier, it is rich in body
and very, very drinkable. Xingu is sold in six-packs of 12-ounce bottles as
well as in 22-ounce bombers.
Xingu Black Beer pours to a jet black color with a thick creamy tan
head and a sweet molasses nose. The palate is very, very lightly roasty with
hints of molasses, caramel, and raisin. Despite its dark color, this is not
at all an overbearing beer. A touch of chocolate appears towards the finish,
along with a hint of licorice. A hint of hops are detectable, but overall
the beer finishes sweet.
This isn’t really a Black Beer of the Amazon, but it is a very nice brew all
the same. Definitely worth trying.
Update 10/29/2017: Here's a long overdue visit with an old friend. Xingu Black Beer is still brewed in Brazil, now imported by Heineken. It's a delightful beer hinting at coffee and chocolate and lightly buttery. A little pricey at $11.99 a six-pack, but nice to see it has changed little over the years and is good as it ever was.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft