Politics and beer can be an explosive combination. While a few pints with friends and lively political debate can be an interesting way to pass an evening, they’re equally likely to end in a shouting match. For this reason, I tend to shy away from same. Especially in my beer reviews. Still, here in Republican Georgia, it’s hard to not notice that old time politics win out over the lip service paid to promoting small business. In Republican Georgia, big business tramples all over small business with the help of the legislature.
What am I talking about? Hop on down to the Wild Heaven brewery in Avondale Estates, Georgia, and try to buy a growler of say, Wild Heaven Invocation to go and you’ll see just what I’m talking about. You can’t buy a growler to go, thanks to greedy business interests and corrupt politicians and bureaucrats. What do I mean? Earlier this year, the Georgia legislature was presented with a bill to allow Georgia breweries and brewpubs to sell growlers to go. Sadly, legislators under the thumb of the big beer distributors here amended the bill to remove brewpubs completely and only allow breweries to give away growlers-and that as part of a tour.
Brewers quickly found a way around that, however, and as I spoke with one brewer from Blue Ridge, he told me he could simply bring someone in the back of his brewhouse, wave his hands and announce “See my brewery?” and sell you a growler. At least, until late September, when the Georgia Department of Revenue, once more working for the interests of the big distributors, demanded each brewery choose its own uniform price for tours. The problem: different beers cost brewers different amounts to make, so they effectively need to charge the highest price for their cheapest growler. Or lose money.
Many brewers here, like Wild Heaven, have simply given up on growler fills and tours as a result of the new regulations, and this after heavy investment to accommodate both. With its interpretation of the law, the Georgia DOR has effectively repressed small business and consumer choice in favor of the big distributors. Sure, I can and will still enjoy beers like Wild Heaven Invocation in bottles and growlers. It’s just that every time I do, those greedy distributors are getting a cut. Not that I mind that in most cases-they make it possible for me to grab a six-pack at the supermarket or liquor store. But when they feel the need to control every drop of beer that flows through the state well, they’ve gone too far.
I’ll get off my soapbox now and tell you a little about Wild Heaven Invocation, a Belgian-style golden ale (think Duvel).
From the label:
Inspired by the great golden ales of Belgium, Invocation is fermented with a Trappist yeast for an earthy spiciness, made more complex by Noble and West Coast hops. We brew Invocation all-grain with no adjunct sugars, creating huge flavor without excess alcohol, so you can enjoy more than just one.
It should be noted that Wild Heaven Invocation has an alcohol content of 8.5% by volume, so to speak to that last bit, I’m not sure how many more than one you can really enjoy without getting tipsy my friends. Still, you’ll want more than one, because this is a wonderful beer indeed. Invocation packs 48 IBUs and runs about $9.99 a 4-pack.
Wild Heaven Invocation Belgian-Style Golden Ale pours to a bright golden color with a thick rocky head formation and a spicy yeasty nose of cloves and coriander. Taking a sip, the beer is light in body, surprisingly so given the strength with faint caramel and bright rock candy notes, cloves and coriander as the nose promised along with funky yeast notes and a warming alcohol and gentle grassy hop bitterness in the finish.
This is an exceptionally well done Belgian golden ale, perhaps my favorite beer from this brewery, and a beer not to be missed. I’m not a fan of four packs, so half star demerit for that, but otherwise this is a really and truly heavenly beer that I’ll be drinking again and again.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft