I was shocked when I heard the news: Anheuser-Busch Inbev had bought yet another iconic craft brewer: Wicked Weed of Asheville, North Carolina. Wicked Weed is spoken of in hushed, almost revered tones amongst beer geeks. Or was anyway. That respect quickly vanished once word of the acquisition got out. “I’ll never buy Wicked Weed again!” was the battle cry of the day.

I’ll be the first to admit that these buyouts don’t make me happy. I think a small, independent brewer loses something when it gets purchased by a huge conglomerate. Wouldn’t it be wonderful if small brewers stayed small forever. Seriously folks? We live in a real world, and I have news for you: beer is a business.

In the world of business, companies buy other companies all the time. Sometimes they absorb them and combine them to increase efficiencies and raise profits. Sometimes, if they’re making money as they are, they leave them alone. Craft beer is a unique animal. People buy it because they love the flavor and yes, sometimes the mystique and aura of a particular brewer. Like Wicked Weed.

The acquirer of any craft brewer can consolidate the production of the acquired to save money, substitute cheaper ingredients and reduce their labor force to raise profits. If you do, though, the product loses its identity and that is a tremendous risk for a craft brewer. The suits at AB Inbev already know they’re going to lose customers of say, Wicked Weed, just by buying them. Their hope is that by increasing the distribution footprint, they can more make up for that lost business.

I’ve already experienced this strategy in action. 10 Barrel Brewing of Oregon, Elysian of Washington State, and Golden Road of California were not available in Georgia-until they were acquired by AB Inbev. In the last several months I’ve drunk beers from all of them, and they were excellent.

Look, I’m not saying a small brewer being bought by a megabrewers is a good thing. I’m just saying it is a thing. It’s the real world, and we had better get used to it. As I said, businesses buy businesses all the time. How many products do you have in your home from big corporate conglomerates? Do you ever think about them buying small competitors and assimilating them? Why (and this is a burning question for me) do you think the business of beer is any different? It’s naïve to think it is.

The finger pointing is annoying, too. Beer geeks are quick to label the owners of breweries agreeing to sell as “sellouts”, as if they are somehow betraying the very notion of craft beer with the act. Give me a break. We beer geeks are fickle, and although we may buy the beers of that particular brewer one or two times out of 100 beers we purchase, we expect that they are supposed to stay small just to make us happy. Seriously? Why should a brewer not take a payday? Do you work for free? Not me. I expect to be paid.

Many question the ethics of Anheuser-Bush Inbev. I tend to agree with that, but again, they are a business and it is their duty to their employees and shareholders to maximize their market share. That is, in a nutshell, why they are buying small brewers. If you can’t beat them, join them. Let me tell you, small brewers are not perfect either. The quaint notion that all small, local, independent brewers are saints is just that-a notion. It’s not reality. Tell me how wonderful they are the next time you’re standing in line to pay them $20 for a 4-pack of beer at the brewery. Indeed, for me, a limiting factor on my Wicked Weed purchases has been their ridiculous prices. Many of their half liter bottles run $10-$13 (I saw several just yesterday at Total Wine for $18). Please tell me how ethical that is.

I’m not telling you how to spend your money. If it bothers you when AB Inbev buys a small brewer, you should stop buying their beer. It’s your money, and nobody should tell you how to spend it. Just don’t look askance at me when I say I’ll still buy these beers as long as the quality remains high. You can pry my Spaten Optimator (also an AB Inbev brewery) from my cold dead fingers. And yes, I will still buy Wicked Weed.

In fact, I just did, a glass of Wicked Weed Pacificmost Mango & Guava Gose at Taco Mac. Wicked Weed says of this beer:

For us, this Old World-inspired beer is Mile Zero–the point at which we spin the compass needle and faithfully follow its will. This Gose takes its inspiration from both sides of the bright Pacific. Brewed with indulgent mango, exotic guava, and balancing Mediterranean sea salt, Pacificmost is maritime refreshment in a bottle. Cheers to following the needle of inspiration.

Wicked Weed Pacificmost Mango & Guava Gose has an alcohol content of 4.1% by volume. It’s actually one of the more reasonably priced beers from Wicked Weed. I paid $5 for an 11-ounce draft and a 4-pack of bottles runs $8.99 at Total Wine.

My glass of Wicked Weed Pacificmost Mango & Guava Gose arrived more yellowish than orange in color with a big fluffy head of foam and a tart sour nose with hints of tropical fruit. Taking a sip, I got a moderate sourness with a wheaty body, hints of mango and guava, and a balancing dry sourness.

Wicked Weed Pacificmost Mango & Guava Gose is tart and refreshing, though it does not really strike me as a Gose. I love the soft fruit notes that remain dry throughout, but I didn’t really get the salt here, and there is no coriander. I want these things in a Gose. Would I buy the beer again? I would at this price point. The AB Inbev buy does not make me happy, but it won’t stop me from enjoying beers like Wicked Weed Pacificmost Mango & Guava Gose.

 And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled

(D)=Draft

(G)=Growler

 

 

 



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