Have you heard the news? Megabrewers are persona non-grata at the Great American Beer Festival. That’s because they’re now allowed only one booth per acquired brewery. Meaning, for example, that Anheuser-Busch sent Bluepoint this year, but Breckenridge, Wicked Weed and Goose Island couldn’t go. That just seems silly to me, and all this year’s winners should have an asterisk next to their award. If Wicked Weed couldn’t compete, well, don’t be so sure you’re a winner.

This is all the handiwork of the Brewers Association, who think they get to define what craft beer is. They don’t. Now, they may have the URL locked up and even a page where they claim to define craft beer (they have an overpriced poster about it splashed on the page they will sell you for $20 plus $7 shipping). Something about production under 6 million barrels, and the brewery must be independent. Which they define as:

Less than 25 percent of the craft brewery is owned or controlled (or equivalent economic interest) by a beverage alcohol industry member that is not itself a craft brewer.

Hey there, Brewers Association. I have news for you. Wicked Weed, Goose Island, Breckenridge, Devil's Backbone, Elysian, Terrapin-they all make craft beer. Craft beer is a term that describes the beer, not who makes it. Sure, it’s a term that incorporates a class of brewers, as well. But you can be a megabrewer and make craft beer, or own smaller breweries that do.

How do I know this? I was there when the term “craft beer” was coined. Way back in 1996, you see (and I had already been drinking what would come to be known as “craft beer” for a dozen years then). Craft beer is an abbreviation of “handcrafted beer”, and it comes from the 90s when many microbrewers were outgrowing the then size-based restriction of 15,000 barrels. The quality of the beer became the focus, and the goal was a distinction between "good" beer brewed with quality ingredients to deliver a flavorful product and American Megalagers.

Here is a UseNet discussion I was involved in back in 1996 about this very topic. In the thread, the opiner before me, one David Brockington, wrote: " I would argue that the term "Craft Beer" be rather expansive. Meaning, it would certainly include Red Hook, Sierra Nevada, Sam Adams, Pete's, and even the honest attempts by AB and Miller."

Note that in those days, some were arguing that Samuel Adams was not craft beer because it was contract brewed. The consensus, though, was that all quality beer was craft beer, even those made by AB and Miller. Are you going to tell me Guinness Stout and Paulaner Salvator are not craft beer? Let’s be real.

The Brewers Association cannot come along and change what craft beer is. My reply  in the thread 21 years ago sums up what craft beer was meant to define WHEN THE TERM WAS COINED, and what it means today:

 

"In my estimation, "craft beer" is a heading under which micros, picos, contracts, and quality beers from large domestic and foreign brewers

all fit as subcategories, so we are in agreement on this one. Actually, it's nice to see that there are so many breweries outgrowing the"micro" stage. This entire string on craft beer is a sign of that."

I am pondering all this over a glass of Wicked Weed Napoleon Complex Hoppy Pale Ale, a beer from a wonderful Asheville, North Carolina brewery that beer geeks adored-until it was bought by Anheuser-Busch this year.

From the can label:

Napoleon Complex is a small-statured pale ale with a larger-than-life attitude. Ignoring the industry standard of diminutive hop presence and mild manner, this pale ale will have most IPA’s contemplating their inadequacy. Little beer, big flavor, even bigger ego.

Wicked Weed Napoleon Complex has an alcohol content of 5.2% by volume. Target sells it for $9.49 a six-pack, making it one of the most affordable Wicked Weed beers.

Wicked Weed Napoleon Complex Hoppy Pale Ale pours to a slightly pale-yellow color with a thick creamy head of foam and a very inviting citrus rind nose. Taking a sip, the beer has a moderate malt body up front, appropriate to a pale ale, then lots and lots of hoppy citrus grapefruit and soft pear and melon notes, a light hint of resin and a bitter grapefruit peel bitterness in the finish. Some papaya and perhaps pineapple pop up too.

A lot of hops going on in this beer to be sure! Wicked Weed Napoleon Complex Hoppy Pale Ale is simply delicious. If you think this isn’t craft beer, you don’t understand what craft beer truly is. Clearly, the Brewers Association does not.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled, canned

(D)=Draft

(G)=Growler

 

 

 



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