To many people,
Germany is the land of beer. If that’s the case, then Austria is too. After
all, the Austrians are within the Germanic family of peoples, too. And
Austrians do love their beer. They consistently rank among the top five
consumers of beer per capita in the world. In 2001, for example, the annual
per capita amount was 106.9 liters. That put them in fourth place, just
behind the Germans (123.1 liters), the Irish (150.8 liters), and the Czechs
(158.1 liters), all figures from Modern Brewery Age.
And the Austrians do brew great beer, too, from wheats to pilsners to bocks
to eisbocks. Many Americans aren’t as familiar with Austrian beer as they
are with German. Still, when it came time for me to pick a beer to represent
Austria in my ongoing review series entitled Around the World in 80 Brews,
all of them bottled, I was not short on choices. I finally decided on
Schloss Eggenberg Urbock 23.
Mostly, this is because this is one of my very favorite Austrian beers. The
brewery also produces a very good Dunkel Eisbock, which I enjoy very
much. Still, I decided in favor of the 23, a powerful Helles (or pale) bock
beer that I think is a classic.
Eggenberg, located in Vorchdorf, has a long tradition of brewing, dating all
the way back to 1681. The “Schloss” in the title literally means castle,
though the beer is not brewed in one. Besides its regular staple of beers,
Eggenberg revived the famous Samichlaus beer a few years back when Hurlimann
discontinued it. That alone earns them brownie points amongst beer
enthusiasts.
Schloss Eggenberg Urbock 23 pours to a pale golden color with a very
light head formation and a very sweet candyish malt nose. The palate is at
once rich and warming with a full and luxuriant texture. The palate is
syrupy, sticky, and decadently sweet. Notes of candied fruit, a hint of
caramel, and cooked corn are all apparent.
In the finish, a grassy hop bitterness emerges, tries to balance the beer,
but is quickly subdued by the sweet malt and the warming alcohol in the
finish. At 9.6% alcohol by volume, Eggenberg Urbock is almost twice as
strong as your average lager. And this is a lager, albeit an exceptional
one.
Eggenberg Urbock is truly Austria in a bottle. Not for the timid, this is a
potent brew best suited to gentle sipping at room temperature to be best
appreciated.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft