Good beers can be a lot like old friends. You like them a
lot, but some times you don't see them as often as you should. Still, when
you do get around to visiting them again, they quickly remind you of why you
liked them so much in the first place. Having tasted over 3200 different
beers at this point, it's quite impossible for me to visit all of them on a
regular basis without turning my liver into a pickle. Tonight however, I'm
dropping in on my old buddy Sam Smith. Again.
Samuel Smith's Beers, like most of those distributed by Seattle-based
importer Merchant du Vin, are on the pricey side. A six pack will run you
around $12; a 550 ml bottle $2.99 to $3.29. Though that works out to about
the same price per ounce, you'd be surprised how many people will pay the $3
for the single yet complain vociferously about the 6 pack price. That has
been my experience at any rate, and contributes to what I call the "Merchant
du Vin Effect". This importer sells their beers for a high price, which
reduces turnaround time, which means the beer sits and goes stale, which
means the buyer pays too much for spoiled beer. I'm very careful when I buy
beers from Merchant du Vin; if they are dusty I won't even consider them.
Nor should you.
As I pop the cap off the (sadly) clear glass bottle, I get the dreaded skunk
aroma I had anticipated. The beer pours jet black into my glass, and a huge
tan head of foam quickly forms. The nose is skunk, skunk, skunk but
fortunately when I take my first sip the roasty character of the beer hides
that unwanted element of this brew. Instead, there's a lot to like here, as
the roast notes combine with licorice and bittersweet chocolate, and then
finally a lingering, roasty-hoppy bitterness in the finish. The beer has
something of a sour character too which makes it eminently drinkable.
Samuel Smith's takes credit for making English porter popular again with
this beer when they introduced it back in 1979. They recommend it with
shellfish such as oysters, and I concur. I like stouts with fried oysters;
this beer is close to a stout in character though thinner in body. I dare
say it would be a fine accompaniment to a slice of dark chocolate cake as
well, perhaps sprinkled with bittersweet chocolate chips.

Update 2006
Tonight on a whim I picked up a bottle of Sam Smith's Taddy Porter. For some
reason, Porters seem to be as scarce as hen's teeth here in Georgia, but
this one is always available. Tonight's bottle is a treat: smooth and
chocolately, a hint of butter, a tad (pun intended) roasty, coffeeish, and
gently roasty bitter in the finish. Very drinkable, and very delicious. Sam
Smith's, like Sam Adams, is always a good decision.
Perhaps why Michael Jackson called
this “One of the world’s five best beers.”
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft