Is gose a lost style? One might say it could be. Not many brewers make a gose today, after all, even in the style’s native Germany. Rarer still are American versions of Gose, such that I’ve never had one-before today that is. In fact, I’ve only ever had one German version of the style, and that in a running tally of 4316 different beers tasted to date.
Gose is native to Leipzig, Germany, in the state of Saxony. Indeed, the one German version that I have seen here in the states is Leipziger Gose, notable not only for its unique flavor but for the distinctive flask-style bottles in which it is packaged. Still, tonight’s tasting of Samuel Adams Verloren raises my Gose tally to two.
A little on the style. Gose is at base a wheat beer, and a top fermented one at that. Most German beers are lagers, though ales like gose are not unprecedented. Weissbier, Kolsch, and altbiers are also top fermented ales and popular in various parts of Germany. What makes gose really unique, however, is the addition of coriander and salt to the brew.
“Holy Reinheitsgebot, Batman!” You say. How can they get away with that and still comply with the famous Bavarian beer purity law of 1516? Never fear, oh lover of beer, for slight variations from the Reinheitsgebot are not without precedent. In the original edict, only barley, water, and hops are mentioned as ingredients in beer (nobody knew about yeast in those days).
Still, roggen beers contain rye, and weissbier is made with yeast, and these variations actually come from Bavaria, the German state where the Reinheitsgebot was drawn up. Indeed, Bavaria insisted that the law be extended to all of Germany as a condition of her entry into the unified German state in 1871. If they can get away with a departure from their own law, why can’t the Leipzigers?
“Verloren” is German for “Lost”, hence my earlier allusion to the style as being such. Samuel Adams says the following about their version of gose:
A link to the ales of Saxony that had all but vanished, this Gose is a peculiar yet captivating brew. With a base of an unfiltered wheat ale, it’s vivid and refreshing yet also has a softness to it. The flavor is brought to life by an unexpected touch of salt for a mineral quality, and coriander for a peppery spice, resulting in an unusual and delicate, yet flavorful brew.
Samuel Adams Verloren is brewed with malted and unmalted wheat, two-row pale malt, Saaz hops, coriander, and kosher salt. The beer has an alcohol content of 6% by volume. I paid $5.99 for a 22 ounce bottle at Total Wine.
Samuel Adams Verloren pours to a cloudy orange amber color with a medium creamy head formation and a fragrant coriander nose. Talking a sip, the beer is salty-malty with a hint of caramel and fruit up front. The coriander spice adds its familiar pungent accent rather quickly. The salt is definitely present right on into the finish and makes you want another sip. Hops are not really apparent but that is appropriate to the style.
Overall, I enjoyed this beer. It’s stronger at 6% than your average gose, if there is such a thing as an average gose, and it lacks the quenching tartness of the style. Still, I found the pronounced saltiness quite unique; indeed, it is even saltier than the Leipziger Gose I have had in the past. Certainly worth trying, especially if you’ve never tried this almost-lost style before.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft