I can't help but think that England's Ridgeway brewery must make about half of it's annual profit at Christmas time. After all, the vast majority of their beers that I've imbibed all seem to have some kind of holiday theme (albeit generally in a twisted sort of way). Beers like Lump of Coal Dark Holiday Stout, Santa's Butt Winter Porter, Warm Welcome Nut-Browned Ale, and more.
And then, of course, there's the "Bad Elf" trilogy : Bad Elf, Very Bad Elf, and Seriously Bad Elf. The "bad" in these beers seems to refer to alcoholic strength, as they get progressively more potent as they go along. Bad Elf weighs in at a somewhat moderate 6% by volume, Very Bad Elf ramps up to 7.5%, and Seriously Bad Elf clocks in at a sobering (well, the reverse of that actually) 9.0%.
As every good trilogy demands a sequel, however, Ridgeway is at it again with a first installment: Criminally Bad Elf, a barleywine styled ale according to the brewer. Once again, this one has had it's alcohol content kicked up a notch, this time to a formidable 10.5% by volume. It runs about $5.99 for a half liter bottle, and a half liter bottle of this stuff should be plenty to warm you on a frosty Christmas Eve.
I decant a portion of my bottle of Criminally Bad Elf into my inverted-bulb shaped Augsburger beer glass. The presentation, at least, is beautiful: the beer pours a brilliant coppery gold color with a thick, towering head of foam. The nose is fruity with an apropos candied mince pie aroma.
Taking a sip, one finds that the palate also has that candied fruit character, but is surprisingly light and aromatic. The beer is very perfumey and aromatic, with a hint of raisin, a touch of fruity green apple, noticeable buttery diacetyl, and a suggestion of spice cake.
Criminally Bad Elf is a lot lighter in color than I'd expect for a barleywine, as the bottle says this is. There's a somewhat drying herbal hop character in the finish, and of course a lot of warming alcohol, too. This isn't exactly what I'd think of as a barleywine, but perhaps I've been spoiled by too many American-brewed malt-hop bombs over the years.
I like this on a cold winter's night, perfect for sipping by the fire before the brightly lit Christmas tree with carols playing and perhaps a sampler of pungent cheeses to munch on.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft