There’s a scene in “The Burgundies of Belgium”, an episode of Michael Jackson’s classic Beer Hunter series where Michael has just finished a fine repast at a Belgian country manner. The feast consisted of multiple courses, each made with and accompanied by a unique beer. After the meal, Michael asks for a Scotch, and explains when you ask for same here you don’t get whiskey-you get beer.

Such is the legend of Scotch Ale in Belgium. Beers the likes of Gordon Highland Scotch Ale, for example, are made in Scotland and shipped to Belgium for imbibing there. They’re generally thick, dark, and a bit more alcoholic than the norm. Consider in this vein Ommegang Cup o Kyndnes, brewed by the Ommegang Brewery in Cooperstown, New York.

Here’s the background story Ommegang gives on the label:

The Belgian-Scotch brewing connection dates to World War I, when thousands of Scotsmen spent years in Belgium. To satisfy their new customers, Belgian brewers learned to brew Scotch-style ales, and the style became a new and significant part of the Belgian brewing tradition. This fine Ommegang ale uses heather tips and a wee bit of smoked malt to bring the taste and aroma of Scotland to the forefront.

The brewers at Ommegang are, of course, no strangers to Belgian tastes in beer. When I visited the brewery over a decade ago, I had to pinch myself to remember I was still in the United States. The quaint farmhouse brewery is very much like a slice of Belgium dropped into the midst of upstate New York, perhaps in Cooperstown to contrast all the more with that shrine of America’s pastime. Today more than ever, as part of the Duvel empire, Ommegang is perhaps the most Belgian of American breweries.

Thus, I could not pass up on the Limited Edition corked 750 ML bottle of Cup O’ Kyndnes, which I then sat on for about a year or so.

Ommegang Cup o Kyndness pours to a murky brownish color with a prodigious head of creamy tan foam and a spicy soft malty nose. The palate is delightfully sweet, ever so lightly chocolaty and fresh sweet malty such that it calls forth visions of fresh baked chocolate chip cookies.  The heady, perfumey heather permeates the brew but becomes more pronounced in the finish. There, it dries with a hint of tartness, a suggestion of peat smoke and a bit of almondy cherry fruit.

This is a wonderful little beer, amazingly drinkable but loaded with a variety of flavors. At just 6.6% by volume, you can safely polish off the bottle, too without too much ill effect the next day. I enjoyed this beer in an authentic thistle-shaped Scotch Ale glass, as much a treat for the eyes as it was the palate. And reasonable enough at $7.99 for the bottle.



Home