When I saw the bottles of Ommegang BPA lined up on the shelf of my local beer store, it didn't take long to figure out what those letters stood for. "Belgian Pale Ale" immediately leaped to mind even before I could examine the label to confirm my theory (although the label does say Belgian-Style Pale Ale).

Knowing Ommegang, this wasn't much of a stretch. The brewery has a distinctly Belgian flair on everything it makes. Visit the Cooperstown, New York brewhouse as I did years ago and you can see why: it's a beautifully ornate piece of old world charm transplanted here in America.

Here's what Ommegang says about their BPA:

"BPA is brewed with 5 specialty malts and generously- though not excessively -hopped
with three hops: Columbus for bittering, three additions of Celeia for aroma, then
dry-hopped with Cascade. BPA is primary fermented and bottle-conditioned using our
signature house yeast."

Ommegang BPA pours to a hazy golden amber color with a prodigious head of pillowy white foam and a very pronounced nose of fruit (pineapple and pear come immediately to mind) and herbal hops. A light layer of Brussels lace clings to the side of my glass as the liquid descends. Taking a sip, the beer has a moderate amount of caramel character from the malt, then the fruit emerges (the pineapple again) along with a very subtle Belgian-inspired yeastiness and a hint of citrus. The hops also make an appearance, becoming grassy and herbal and depositing a long, lingering dry bitterness in the finish.

Ommegang BPA is bottle-conditioned, getting to the bottom of my bottle I swirl the liquid to rouse the yeast. It adds a slightly nutty flavor when poured into my glass. The brewery cellars the beer for a time as well.

I must admit that I'm very much impressed with Ommegang BPA. They've really hit a Belgian Pale Ale right on the head, crafting a beer with just the right amount of fruit and hops to make this a credible American pale ale. All the while, they've added just the right dash of Belgian yeast flavor and aroma to justify the Belgian-style moniker. And at 6.2% alcohol by volume Ommegang BPA does not beat you with an alcoholic hammer.

Ommegang sold BPA in 750ML crown corked bottles nationwide in the spring of 2010 as a limited release. I bought one for around $7, which is very reasonable for the quality received. Currently, it's still being sold in a few test markets, with the aim of a possible permanent re-release. I for one hope that happens.

Truly, the old world meets the new world with Ommegang BPA.



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