Newport Storm '04
Review Date 4/22/2005
Try?
Re-buy?
Does the thought
of warm beer scare you? It shouldn’t. Certainly most beers are best served
cool, not warm, not cold, to best appreciate their full flavor. For
megabrews like Bud, Coors, Miller, Heineken and the like, cold is better: it
hides the fact that they don’t have a lot of flavor. But some beers are
better served warm, like Newport Storm 04. We’ll get into the reasons
why shortly.
Does the though of flat beer scare you? It shouldn’t. Granted, most beers should never be served flat, since their carbonation is an integral part of what makes them beer. But some beers, like Newport Storm 04, are best served almost flat, and indeed come that way right out of the bottle.
Newport Storm is the brand name for Rhode Island’s only bottling microbrewery, Coastal Extremes. Their flagship brand, Hurricane Amber Ale, runs toward the mainstream line, and the brewers will admit as much. I had frequent contact with them when I wrote for the Yankee Brew News in Rhode Island. And these guys are smart. Where other local brewers failed with a line of bold and exciting beers that only fickle beer geeks appreciated, they bottled a beer with broad appeal that pays the bills.
And a beer that pays the bills allows you to do extremely interesting beers too, like Newport Storm 04. Sold in Cobalt Blue wine –sized bottles, these are seasonal releases that spend about ten months conditioning before they hit the shelves in winter. To be sure, they aren’t intended to be drunk all in one sitting, but they’re great for sharing or for capping to finish another night. Let’s allow Brent Ryan, company president, to speak for a moment:
The fifth iteration of our annual limited beer series, 04, features a new look and some more premium ingredients. First, 04 is the lightest in color of the limited beers that we have created. However, to assume that it is less intense than our previous versions would be a mistake. In order to balance out the ample European Pils malt in this pale colored lager we have used the four Noble hops (Hallertau, Tettenanger, Spalt, and Saaz). For centuries these hops have been singled out in the brewing industry for their superior qualities and, in 04, provide an exceptionally complex bitterness and aroma. It is this special combination that creates, yet, another unique brew. It is extremely limited, extremely strong, and extremely original, because as we like to say around here: “It’s All About Extremes!”
Newport Storm 04 pours to a reddish golden color with a bright transparency. The carbonation surprised me at first, with a very light head forming atop a gentle pour (I was expecting none at all). On subsequent pours, however, there was much less carbonation. The nose is quite rich and almost liqueur like, you can definitely tell this is a high octane brew.
Immediately upon sipping the tongue is overwhelmed by the thick, sweet malt. It’s wonderfully chewy and caramelly, with a distinct spiciness and very strong alcohol warmth. Fruity hints of raisin, sweet candied fruit, and strong notes of rum and vanilla are also discernible. The alcohol really burns in the finish and the beer finishes surprisingly dry, both from the alcohol and a generous bit of hop bitterness.
The German hops mentioned above really add a lot of floral spice to the palate and a surprising bitterness to the finish. At 14% alcohol by volume, Newport Storm 04 is almost three times as strong as most beers. It’s also the strongest release in the series to date (read about the 00, and a little about the history of Rhode Island brewing, click here ). In many ways it reminds me of classic German strong lagers like EKU 28 and Samichlaus , though it has a bit less body than those beers I think. But only a bit.
This is a definite winner, one of the most interesting brews you’ll come across and one that will store nicely for years. By beer standards, it may seem expensive at $9.99 for a 750ml bottle. But don’t be fooled. Complex as many a wine, it’s worth every penny, and a bargain at the price.
And just in case you’re worried, you can chill it gently. It won’t lose a lot of flavor. Try a small glass just before bedtime as a wonderful nightcap. It works equally well before a meal to rouse the appetite or just after a hearty one to aid in digestion. Any way you pour it, this is a world-class brew.
Does the though of flat beer scare you? It shouldn’t. Granted, most beers should never be served flat, since their carbonation is an integral part of what makes them beer. But some beers, like Newport Storm 04, are best served almost flat, and indeed come that way right out of the bottle.
Newport Storm is the brand name for Rhode Island’s only bottling microbrewery, Coastal Extremes. Their flagship brand, Hurricane Amber Ale, runs toward the mainstream line, and the brewers will admit as much. I had frequent contact with them when I wrote for the Yankee Brew News in Rhode Island. And these guys are smart. Where other local brewers failed with a line of bold and exciting beers that only fickle beer geeks appreciated, they bottled a beer with broad appeal that pays the bills.
And a beer that pays the bills allows you to do extremely interesting beers too, like Newport Storm 04. Sold in Cobalt Blue wine –sized bottles, these are seasonal releases that spend about ten months conditioning before they hit the shelves in winter. To be sure, they aren’t intended to be drunk all in one sitting, but they’re great for sharing or for capping to finish another night. Let’s allow Brent Ryan, company president, to speak for a moment:
The fifth iteration of our annual limited beer series, 04, features a new look and some more premium ingredients. First, 04 is the lightest in color of the limited beers that we have created. However, to assume that it is less intense than our previous versions would be a mistake. In order to balance out the ample European Pils malt in this pale colored lager we have used the four Noble hops (Hallertau, Tettenanger, Spalt, and Saaz). For centuries these hops have been singled out in the brewing industry for their superior qualities and, in 04, provide an exceptionally complex bitterness and aroma. It is this special combination that creates, yet, another unique brew. It is extremely limited, extremely strong, and extremely original, because as we like to say around here: “It’s All About Extremes!”
Newport Storm 04 pours to a reddish golden color with a bright transparency. The carbonation surprised me at first, with a very light head forming atop a gentle pour (I was expecting none at all). On subsequent pours, however, there was much less carbonation. The nose is quite rich and almost liqueur like, you can definitely tell this is a high octane brew.
Immediately upon sipping the tongue is overwhelmed by the thick, sweet malt. It’s wonderfully chewy and caramelly, with a distinct spiciness and very strong alcohol warmth. Fruity hints of raisin, sweet candied fruit, and strong notes of rum and vanilla are also discernible. The alcohol really burns in the finish and the beer finishes surprisingly dry, both from the alcohol and a generous bit of hop bitterness.
The German hops mentioned above really add a lot of floral spice to the palate and a surprising bitterness to the finish. At 14% alcohol by volume, Newport Storm 04 is almost three times as strong as most beers. It’s also the strongest release in the series to date (read about the 00, and a little about the history of Rhode Island brewing, click here ). In many ways it reminds me of classic German strong lagers like EKU 28 and Samichlaus , though it has a bit less body than those beers I think. But only a bit.
This is a definite winner, one of the most interesting brews you’ll come across and one that will store nicely for years. By beer standards, it may seem expensive at $9.99 for a 750ml bottle. But don’t be fooled. Complex as many a wine, it’s worth every penny, and a bargain at the price.
And just in case you’re worried, you can chill it gently. It won’t lose a lot of flavor. Try a small glass just before bedtime as a wonderful nightcap. It works equally well before a meal to rouse the appetite or just after a hearty one to aid in digestion. Any way you pour it, this is a world-class brew.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft
