Sahti? What the hell is that, you ask? You thought you were going to get a beer review here? Have faith, dear reader, a beer review is exactly what you’ve tuned into, because Sahti is, in fact, beer. Specifically, it’s a style of Finnish homebrew made from all kinds of grain (the usual barley plus rye and perhaps wheat and/or oats). It may be spiced with hops, but if so in conjunction with the customary juniper berries. It is often aged on or filtered through juniper branches. In homebrewed examples, a stick may be used to stir the fermenting brew; yeast is allowed to collect upon it for use in the next batch. Wild yeast and bacteria may influence the brew, leaving it tart, sour and refreshing.

Commercial Finnish varieties of Sahti possess a unique character of their own, though are likely less idiosyncratic than the homebrewed versions. To be sure, I only speculate here, but having read some of Michael Jackson’s reviews of hombrewed Sahti, it’s hard to imagine the same character could be replicated on a large scale. Here in America, it seems that Colorado’s New Belgium brewery has tried to do just that with their own Sahti, an entry in their Lips of Faith series of specialty brews.

Certainly, this is the first American attempt at the style I have come across. I think it’s more of a salute to the style than an absolute attempt to authentically replicate it. To see why I say this, let’s try it, shall we?

New Belgium Lips of Faith Sahti pours to a bright orange color with a thick creamy head of foam and a spicy gin-like nose. The beer has a delightful crystal-caramel malt body at the fore, very tasty and appetizing with a hint of citrus and a decided spicy rye character. Indeed, I was a bit surprised when I noticed the bright citrus character-not what I was really expecting in a Sahti. So, I reached for the bottle and sure enough, orange and lemon peel are referenced on the label. The rye-toast character and, in the finish, distinctly piney and aromatic juniper berries really add their two cents (maybe even four). I did notice sediment at the bottom after decanting.

To me, the classic Sahti rye and juniper elements are well represented here, but the hops are probably more than you’d find in a traditional one. I’m not so sure the citrus would be there, either. Before we pass final judgment, let’s allow New Belgium their say:

Inspired by Finnish Sahti, a traditional rye ale brewed with juniper, our Sahti Ale is a hazy amber ale with a sturdy mouthfeel and a crisp and lively finnish. Brewed with Pale, Crystal, rye malts and whole oats, our version is bittered with Cascade and finished with Cascade and Amarillo hops. Juniper boughs are added to the mash and juniper berries, orange and lemon peel are pitched in the whirlpool creating a festive olfactory of citrus and juniper notes.

I enjoyed a bottle of New Belgium Lips of Faith Sahti in November of 2010, shortly after its release. Another had held up remarkably well a year later. Will we see this beer again? That remains to be seen, but one hops for as much. All in all, this was a pretty darned good beer. Bright and lively, well spiced and highly drinkable, much more delicate than its 7.2% alcohol content by volume would suggest, though a touch of warmth does come through. A very pleasant surprise indeed, and well worth the $6.99 I paid for the 22-ounce bottle.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled

(D)=Draft

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