So there I was
on Friday night, sitting at the bar of Max Lager’s brewpub on
Peachtree Street in downtown Atlanta. I was chatting with a manager, and we
were discussing the pending changes to Georgia’s antiquated beer law. A bill
sitting on the governor’s desk onlt needs his signature (or lack of veto) to
become law. While we were conversing, I was enjoying some of Max Lager’s
wonderful brews: their hoppy, crisp Max Pale (an IPA actually); a
malty, chocolaty, Winter Bock, and a delightful Scotch Ale,
which I found to be more a Scottish ale, and a dead ringer for Belhaven.
The discussion turned to an unfortunate (and inaccurate) letter which was
published in the Atlanta Journal Constitution, a letter which has ignited a
furor over the new law among neo-prohibitionists and the misinformed.
Basically, the letter implied that all beers in Georgia would be
increasing to 14% alcohol by volume, and that that a glass of the
newly-legalized beers would be three times stronger than a glass of wine
(patently false; ounce for ounce, most of these beers would have less
alcohol than most wines). An opposing viewpoint, contained in a letter
written by yours truly, appears in the Atlanta Journal Constitution today,
February 17th.
This was enough, however, to get Channel 46, the local CBS affiliate to run
a sensationalist piece called Trouble Brewing: What if Beer Were Three
Times Stronger? on their eleven o’clock news program. Of course, beer
now is legally limited to an alcohol content of 6% by volume, and three
times 6 is 18, not 14. Would you trust a station that can’t do simple
arithmetic to report your news to you? I know I wouldn’t.
To be fair, the piece did present the pros as well as the cons. Mostly,
however, it featured a running segment in which reporter Fred Powers drank
three bottles of Samichlaus while an aide drank three bottles of Budweiser
over a three hour period. The Atlanta Police Department periodically checked
the blood alcohol levels of both participants. Fred implied that the
stronger beers would get you drunker much faster.
Which at first didn’t happen. For the first two hours, the blood alcohol
levels of the two were about the same, much to Fred’s chagrin. Finally, in
the last hour, Fred scored roughly .06 to the aide’s .04. I suspect Fred
would have kept drinking until he got the results he wanted, although he did
note that he was still under the legal limit. Fred didn’t appear to be too
happy about this.
So what does all this drama have to do with Max Lagers’ Imperial Mocha
Oatmeal Stout? Plenty, because this is the type of beer that would be
legal under the new law. It’s not meant to be swilled for a quick buzz in a
steady progression of one beer after another. Instead, it’s a brew to be
sipped and savored, to enjoy as a warming respite from a cold winter
evening.
This is indeed a complex brew, made with wheat and chocolate malts, flaked
oats and barley, Maris Otter malt, and dark crystal. It’s hopped with
Cascades, Goldings, and Northern Brewer. Max Lagers’ Imperial Mocha
Oatmeal Stout isn’t on tap just yet, but it will be soon, so you have
time to get down to the brewpub and try a glass if you live in the area or
will be passing through soon. The manager brought me a glass out of the
conditioning tanks and it was delightful. If anything, this one will improve
as it ages a tad more.
Max Lagers’ Imperial Mocha Oatmeal Stout pours to a deep jet black
color with a thick and creamy head formation and a rich chocolaty nose. You
could just sit and smell this beer all night and get your chocolate fix for
a week The palate is full bodied, robust, and rich with a silky smooth,
slightly oily mouthfeel. Sinfully rich, this one is.
There are strong notes of licorice here, powerful notes of espresso,
bittersweet chocolate, and a subtle hint of fruit. The oatmeal smoothes the
beer out a bit, but in the finish the hops take over. They’re a bit minty
(and thus work well with the chocolaty flavors), a tad grassy, and leave a
lingering bitter buzz on the tongue that balances but does not overpower.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.