Lately, I've been re-reading one of my very
favorite books by Michael Jackson,
The Great Beers of Belgium. While doing so, I realized it's been a while
since I enjoyed one of those delightful little specialties the Belgians are
famous for: lambic. Of course Jackson's superb writing was whetting my
appetite for most of the styles he examines, but a fruity lambic seemed most
desirable. So, I popped on down to the local liquor store and brought home a
bottle of Lindeman's Kriek Lambic.
Fruit beers seem to get a bad rap among the hardcore beer geek clique,
though I've never understood why. Fruit can spice beer as well as hops can,
after all, and the Belgians, no slouches when it comes to beer, have been
making them for a long time.
This is a lambic beer, and as such a bit different from most beers you've
tried. That's because unlike the standard brewing process, where a
particular strain of yeast carefully chosen by the brewer is used to ferment
a beer, lambics are spontaneously fermented by wild yeast (and later by
bacteria in their wooden storage vessels). This gives them a distinct
tartness and at times an almost "winey" character. They may be aged for many
years, and are seasoned with old hops desirable for their preservative
quality rather than to add bitterness.
"Kriek" is Flemish for black cherry, and a Kriek lambic has an additional
fermentation after whole black cherries have been added to the beer. The
yeasts will consume them right down to the pits, which adds a wonderful
fruit flavor and almost almondy dryness. Lindeman's Kriek is sweetened
slightly with sugar, something that also boils the blood of some die-hard
beer geeks, too. Don't count me in with the latter, however, because I love
this beer.
Lindeman's Kriek Lambic pours to a rich and beautiful rosy pink color
with a thick and foamy (as well as equally pink colored) head formation and
a robust fruity nose bursting with black cherry aroma. A very thick layer of
Brussels lace clings to my flute glass as the liquid descends, which it does
pretty quickly as I enjoy this wonderful treat.
As I mentioned, Lindeman's Kriek is often criticized by beer geeks as being
overly sweet, almost soda-pop like in character. And although there may be a
kernel of truth in that (the beer does have a decided sweetness in the
fore), I think such criticisms are off the mark.
I say this because this is such a wonderful, refreshing beer-sweet, yes, but
also packed with wonderful luscious fruit, deep, dark and delicious cherry
flavor and even a bit of dry almond from the pits. In the finish, some of
the tartness from the acidic lambic base beer comes through, balancing off
the sweetness with a sour end that makes the beer a bit more drinkable and
even quenching.
A simply delicious beer, another one of those brews for those who think they
don't like beer buy simply haven't found the right one yet. I love it on a
warm spring or summer afternoon, but it also makes a delightful dessert
beer, pairing exquisitely with a warm berry strudel and a dollop of vanilla
ice cream.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.