I’m always happy to meet a new brewery. These days, though, that seems to happen a lot, as the increasingly vast numbers of new microbrews on the market all chase the consumer’s dollar. Luckily for brewers, there seem to be a lot of those dollars chasing their beer, as the market for craft beer keeps growing. So much so, in fact, that some of the more established brands (like Dogfish Head and Avery) have had to pull back from several states. They just can’t make enough beer to meet the demand.
Overall, beer sales in the US have been declining over the past few years, though as fewer megabrews are sold, more craft beer keeps on flowing. People seem to be drinking less, but a growing number are drinking better. The Brewers Association reports some interesting statistics on the phenomenon. Total beer sales dropped 2.2% in 2009 and then another 1% in 2010. American craft brewers, however, have seen sales increase such that they now command 4.9% of market share by volume sold, and 7.6% by dollar amount. The number of breweries brewing in 2010 hit 1753, and one of them that was new to me that year was Ponderay, Idaho’s Laughing Dog.
Laughing Dog has only been around since 2005, but they’re already creating a stir in the beer world with their products. Take, for example, the interestingly named Dogfather Imperial Stout. This is an imperial stout, and a big one at that at 10.85% alcohol by volume. The beer is a fall seasonal made with 7 malts and 4 hops. It boasts an impressive 71 IBUs of bitterness. The label caught my attention immediately, as I was amused by the play on “The Godfather”, but that wouldn’t matter if the beer wasn’t good. Luckily it is, and very good at that.
The Dogfather Imperial Stout pours to a jet black color with a humongous tan ice-cream soda head formation and an almost obscenely tempting licorice and cocoa nose. Taking a sip, your palate gets whacked right away, but in a good way of course. Deep dark chocolate, charcoal, licorice, oak, powdery cocoa, raisins and prunes, and caramel all rattle across the palate like a clip of bullets from a Thompson sub-machine gun. The body here is rich and thick, luxuriant in the way it glides across the tongue. In the finish, the beer becomes slightly sour, very roasty and more intensely black-coffeeish, rich with espresso. The alcohol warms the palate as well.
To be blunt, this one blew me away. All of the flavors here are so robust and in your face that you just can’t help but be impressed. Just excellent, a true sipping beer that’s a sheer delight to slowly savor.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft