I may be beating a dead horse, but so be it: it always irks me that beer enthusiasts just don’t get the respect that wine afficianados do. Tell somebody you’re a wine connoisseur and you’ll get nothing but respect and admiration. You’re considered cultured and refined. Tell them your hobby is tasing as many beers as you possibly can, however, and you’re a drunk. And who needs that?

I’m sure I’m not the only beer lover to experience this. But beer really can be a very complex drink, as complex as wine is to be sure. And if you doubt this, well, I guess you’ve never tasted a beer from Belgium’s Brasserie La Binchoise. These guys brew beers of amazing character and complexity, beers you simply must try to appreciate.

One of my favorites is their Brune, or brown ale. This is nothing like Newcastle Brown, or likely any brown ale you’ve tried. Instead, this is an idiosyncratic and uniquely Belgian styled ale, rich and creamy and packed with all sorts of flavors. Which I suppose is a sort of pun, since All Sorts is a licorice candy, and you will get licorice flavors here.

This is a sipping beer in my estimation. You’ll want to enjoy it from a bowl-shaped goblet or chalice as I am, since this will allow the beer's many complex flavors and aromas to more fully emerge. It should be served cool but not cold, 50 to 55 degrees will do nicely.

At 8.2% alcohol by volume, Brune Tradition makes a perfect night cap. Especially when you’re polishing off one of the 750ml corked bottles alone. The beer is bottle conditioned, so a little sediment is natural and normal. If you prefer, you can pour the last portion of the bottle gently, leaving the sediment in the bottle. I prefer drinking it, as it imparts an increased nuttiness and subtle smokiness. The B vitamins in the yeast are good for you, too.

La Binchoise Brune Tradition pours to a deep mahogany color with a tart nutty sweet nose and a creamy, rocky tan head of foam. A generous coasting of tan Brussels lace chases the liquid down the sides of the glass. The palate is creamy and sweet with notes of brown sugar, licorice, mint, toffee, and toasted nuts. A cotton-candy Belgian yeast character permeates the brew.

The mouthfeel is full and luxurious, silky smooth and, again, oh so creamy. In the finish, there’s a bit of aromatic minty hops and a warming alcohol kiss. There are lots and lots of flavors going on here, and I think this beer would be a perfect before dinner drink, aptly suited to whet the appetite.

This is what beer should be. Try one today and you’ll see what I mean.

And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.

*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.

(B)=Bottled

(D)=Draft



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