The folks at
Hawaii's Kona Brewing Company had a great idea. I'm sure it came to them one
morning over a cup of steaming island grown coffee, but I can't be sure. Why
not brew up a dark and delicious porter, and add to it world
famous....Hawaiian kona coffee! The result: Pipeline Porter, a
seasonal offering available September through March. Although, when you
think about it, that's a pretty long season.
Kona isn't the first to brew a beer with coffee, of course; lots of other
brewers have done that. And it really shouldn't surprise, since dark beers
and dark coffees are produced in much the same way: by roasting grain or
beans to achieve their desired color, flavor, and aroma. But there's
something poetic about a beer called Kona brewed with pure Hawaiian coffee.
Not that the Pipeline Porter we get here in the states is really brewed in
Hawaii. Although the bottles don't really say just where the stuff is made,
the fact that it's sold in the supermarket right next to the Red Hook beers
(and even comes in the same bottles) tells me it's probably brewed here in
the states by them. But Kona does brew beer in Hawaii for distribution on
the islands.
Kona Pipeline Porter pours to a very dark brownish black color, though it's
not completely opaque, and if you hold it to the light you will see what I'm
talking about. A soft tan head forms upon a gentle pour, and heavenly,
enticing aromas of roasty dark coffee waft from the glass. I'm almost
tempted to add cream and sugar, but not quite tempted enough, of course.

Sipping the beer I get more of that wonderful coffeeish flavor that the nose
promised, laced with hints of chocolate, licorice, and caramel. The one
distracting feature is the body, which is a bit thinner than I would like.
The finish is a bit grainy, and the thinness becomes more irritating there
too. A bit of grassy hop and roasted barley bitterness balances nicely.
I like this beer, though I don't love this beer. You will definitely get the
coffee notes here, maybe even more so than the beeriness of it. With a bit
more body, this could be something really special. As it stands, it's a good
beer instead of a great one. The price (I paid $8.29 for a six-pack) is a
bit hefty, but it's worth shelling out at least once to give it a try.
I will say this: this is a truly delightful dessert beer. The coffee
character makes it a perfect match to chocolate cake or French apple pie; I
paired a glass with a slice of rich, creamy cheesecake for a truly sinful
yet at the same time heavenly match.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft