A week ago today
as I write, the beer world and humanity in general lost a great one.
Bert Grant, founder of Yakima Brewing and Malting, died on July 31st in
Vancouver, British Columbia. He was 73. Bert was sometimes referred to as
the “Dean of American Brewers”, and with good reason. Bert established the
country’s first brewpub since prohibition back in 1982 and put craft brew on
the map in the Pacific Northwest, inspiring a love for full-flavored brews
that would culminate in the regions ascension to one of the nation’s
premiere brewing centers. In many ways, he was the father of brewing in the
Pacific Northwest.
Grant’s most endearing quality was his independent streak, his habit of
doing things his way. He brewed his beers the way he liked them, and
if you liked them too, so much the better. Grant once told me in an e-mail
that the brewer should have total control of the brewing process. Indeed, it
was his philosophy (one I happen to agree with) that the brewer should have
freedom from marketing pressures, freedom to experiment, freedom to push the
envelope on beer styles and try new things. And push the envelope he did,
producing beers that were idiosyncratic and just a tad different from the
stylistic norm.
Grant was born in Scotland, moved to Canada as a child and took up work for
a Canadian brewer at age 16. Years later he would change countries again,
this time coming to America where he worked for various brewers and
eventually the hop industry until 1982, when he decided to open his own
brewery-brewpub, Yakima brewing and Malting. Bert was a unique individual to
say the least, often sporting a kilt and drinking beers with regulars in his
pub. His automobile bore the vanity plate “realale”, and beer was an
integral part of the man’s life even after he sold his company to Stimson
Lane Ltd. in 1995. Grant maintained an active role in ensuring his beers
remained true to form even after the sale.
I still remember to this day the excitement of finding Grant’s Ales for the
first time here in New England. A local retailer had made exclusive
arrangements to obtain most of the Grant’s brands, and when I walked into
the store there they were, stacked on an end cap display in all of their
glory. This was around 1992 or 1993, and the beers were pricey at about $10
a six-pack. It didn’t matter. I grabbed a six-pack of India Pale Ale,
Scottish, and Imperial Stout and quickly rushed home to try them. I was not
disappointed.

The Imperial Stout was my favorite of all. Somewhat lighter than many
examples of the style, Grant’s Imperial Stout has an original gravity of
about 1.07 or so. Most Imperials weigh in in the vicinity of 1.1. The
alcohol content is lower too, at about 6%, only slightly higher than
Budweiser. Still, this is a marvelous brew with a jet-black color and a
creamy tan head. The nose is full of licorice but the palate absolutely
bursts with it. There are notes of chocolate here too and a little
roastiness, as well as a full rich mouthfeel imparted by caramel malt and
honey. The finish is nicely bitter and lingers slightly on the tongue.
So here’s to you, Bert, a toast of a fine ale to the great man who created
it. The Germans have a saying that in heaven there is no beer, but I think
that’s about to change. Your contributions are appreciated, and you will be
missed.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft
(G)=Growler