When I eventually make my way out to Denver, Colorado, I think the first thing I’ll do is head on over to the Flying Dog Brewery. Is it because these guys make the best beer on the planet? Nah. I don’t think anybody does that. But Flying Dog does make a nice array of very tasty beers, and they distribute them far and wide from their 35,000 barrel brewhouse.

What’s more, you can find their beers on draft, in six-packs or, my personal favorite, in a 12-pack assortment called the Litter of Ales. The bottles generally feature some off-beat artwork and an occasional wise or witty quote, too. And of course, there’s the beer inside the bottle, like the very delicious Old Scratch Amber.

Flying Dog marks its tenth anniversary this year, and that’s certainly reason to celebrate. Which I did with an Old Scratch. Introduced in 1996, Old Scratch is a steam-style beer meant to resemble the classic Anchor Steam beer. Steam beers are hybrids, fermented warm (like an ale) but then cold conditioned to smooth them out a bit.

As such, steam beers (also known as California Common) will have some of the fruitiness of an ale, but not as much as they would had they not been lagered, or cold conditioned. The style is said to have originated in California in the days before artificial refrigeration was possible. Kegs of the beer produced so much carbonation they were said to “steam”, or so the story goes.

Old Scratch Amber pours to a deep ruby amber color with a rich, fruity nose and a light creamy head formation. The beer has a rich and soothing mouthfeel and an equally luxuriant palate. There’s a touch of caramel, a pronounced fruitiness, and a gentle toastiness as you sip. In the finish, a mellow touch of grassy hop bitterness is nicely juxtaposed against the sweet chewy malt. This serves to balance the beer nicely.

I think this is a pretty good attempt at a steam-style beer. It’s no Anchor, to be sure, but it’s darn good all the same. Then too, Old Scratch can be had for about $2 a six-pack less than Anchor.

A nice beer to pair with seafood, I think; mine paired nicely with broiled salmon and a dill cream sauce, garlic-parmesan baked potatoes, and squash and onions in butter.