Last night I was
reading Andrew Smith's excellent review on pizza and beer and the brewpub he
visited that made both. It got me to thinking about hard-to-find beers and
the small brewpubs and breweries that dot the country, producing wonderful
brews the likes of the ones Andrew described so well. Some of these beers
we’ll never taste, but it’s nice to know that in most parts of the country
there are small brewers who brew their own tantalizing libations for us to
enjoy.
Here in New England one such brewer has emerged to produce beers that are
deserving of national acclaim. Their brews are bold and flavorful, rich and
rewarding. They aren’t sold in six-packs, but instead are packaged in 750ml
wine sized bottles. They are pricey, selling for $5.99 a bottle. That works
out to about 24 cents an ounce, or $2.88 for a 12-ounce serving. They’re
worth every penny.
The brewer I’m talking about is Cisco Brewers of Nantucket in Massachusetts.
They’ve only been around for a few years ago, and when they started out they
were so small owner Randy Hudson called the operation a “nano” brewery,
feeling the term microbrewery was too large a descriptor. Eventually they
purchased a 7-barrel system from Ipswich brewing and “moved up” to micro
status.
Captain Swain was a whaler from whom Randy Hudson is descended and a member
of one of the first families to settle in Nantucket. Were Captain Swain
alive today, I am sure he would be honored. The stout that bears his name is
one of the tastiest brews I’ve sampled in quite some time. Loads of roasted
malt, Munich malt, and wheat malt are used, and Chinook hops are employed
during the brew and later for dry hopping.
Captain Swain’s Extra Stout is bottle-conditioned and as a result a soft
pour produces a huge rocky tan head of foam. Indeed, it took three pours to
fill my glass, as each pour produced a voluminous column of foam that rose
to the top of the glass like lava from a long-dormant volcano. The color is
jet-black; the nose is full of rich chocolate. The palate is complex and
bursting with flavor: rich, bittersweet chocolate, licorice, espresso,
roasted barley, chocolate pudding all come at you at various points. The
finish is bitter, mostly from the roasted grain but also from the hops,
which also add a slightly piney note. There’s a touch of yeasty fruit there
too.
This was delightful with assorted fine chocolates, and would make an
excellent dessert beer with any chocolate confection
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.