I have this
thing for large breweries. I’m not sure why, but every time I see one of the
big guys trying to market something akin to craft beer, I go crazy trying to
get my hands on some. I think, maybe, it’s because I want to give them the
benefit of the doubt, and hope they’ll actually put out something halfway
decent. After all, we beer geeks complain about the mostly flavorless beers
that most of the Megabrewers crank out, so we really need to cut them some
slack when they give us what we want, right?
Then too, the hope is that their influence on their baseline customers might
get them to try something out of the ordinary. Maybe, they’ll like
it, and discover the wide and wonderful world of beer that exists out there.
Denmark’s Carlsberg brewing group, among the world’s largest brewing
concerns, has not been known most especially for its bold and flavorful
brews. Instead, it is best known for Carlsberg Lager, a decent enough clean
lager if not an especially interesting one. To honor the brewery’s founder,
J.C. Jacobsen, Carlsberg dug out an original 1854 recipe and went to great
lengths to simulate the brew. Here’s what they say:
Jacobsen Original Dark Lager is based on the oldest recipe in the
Carlsberg archives, J.C. Jacobsen's original recipe of 1854. We analyzed the
water used in Jacobsen's time and created an exact copy of his starting
ingredient by adding salts and minerals. The main raw material is
Münchenermalt from Germany, but we have also added a so-called floor malt
from England, just as was done in Jacobsen's time. Fermented at low
temperature to give a specially mild and rounded caramel flavour.
Extra points for the brown glass bottles. Carlsberg uses Herrsbrucker hops
and glucose syrup as well as the aforementioned Munich malt. The end product
is slightly stronger than most at 5.8% alcohol by volume.
Carlsberg’s Jacobsen Dark Lager pours to a beautiful light mahogany
color with a very thick and creamy head formation that towers over the
liquid in my half liter glass mug. The nose is slightly sweet and promises
the dark malt delights to come. You get a little grassy hop aroma too.
Allowing the foam to settle a little, I take a sip, and I’m treated to the
delicious, delicate flavors of toasted nuts (a touch of hazelnut even),
chocolate, toffee, and a subtle hint of molasses. The body is smooth and
creamy, and that makes this a very dangerously drinkable brew indeed. As the
liquid descends in my glass, it deposits a fine coating of Brussels lace on
the sides.
Being a lager, this is still a clean beer overall, without any fruity ester
notes. In the finish, a gentle hop bitterness and herbal aroma balances the
malt sweetness nicely, where they marry perfectly with the delicate toffee
and chocolate flavors. The latter intensify nicely as the last vestiges of
the beer wash over the taste buds. One important caveat: this beer should
not be served ice cold, but rather cool, to best appreciate its delicate
malt wonders.
Overall, this is a delightful little Munich "dunkels" style dark lager, and
just goes to show what kind of beers the big guys could make if they
really set their minds to it (and, to be fair, if consumers would buy them).
More beers exist in the Jacobsen series, and more are planned, too.
Four and a half stars, and I almost rounded down to four mainly because I
think this should be sold in six-packs for about $7 rather than in 750 ML
bottles for $6. But kudos for the lengths Carlsberg went to to make this
authentic.
It really is a taste of Denmark in a bottle.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft