When many beer
enthusiasts think about North American breweries producing Belgian-styled
ales, there are several names that are sure to come up. New Belgium from
Colorado is a given, and you might hear about Stoudt’s and Victory from
Pennsylvania, too. There are a few breweries, however, who specialize in
such beers. They brew Belgian styled ales exclusively, and the dedication
and devotion to their craft is evident in every sip of their beer you take.
Unibroue of Quebec is famous for being such a brewery, as is Ommegang of New
York. Slightly less well known, though every bit as good, is Portland,
Maine’s Allagash Brewing Company. Though the name does not invoke the
European images that Unibroue and Ommegang might, don’t let that fool you:
Allagash beers are every bit as authentic as their old-world sounding
compatriots.
Allagash offers their beer on draft, in six-packs of 12-ounce bottles, and
in corked 750 ml bottles (The Reserve line). They offer a very popular white
ale, a dubbel, a tripel, a Speciale, and of course Grand Cru. The
beers are bottle conditioned and will improve with age, especially those in
the larger bottles. The stronger of these will age out nicely for years.
As is common for Belgian beers of this type, Allagash packages its Reserve
beers with added sugar and a secondary yeast that is different from the one
used for primary fermentation. The results speak for themselves: authentic,
distinctive ales of great character that lend themselves to pairing with a
wide range of foods, or are perfect for sipping by themselves on a cold New
England night.
Allagash Brewing traces its origin back to 1995 when it first offered its
flagship Allagash White. Since that time, brewer Rob Tod has
continued to delight New England beer lovers with his delicious and unique
brews, and his vision has truly paid off. In a microbrew market that almost
overwhelmingly favors English style ales, there has been plenty of room for
a taste of something different. Today, Allagash is looking to expand their
vision beyond the northeast.
Allagash Grand Cru is the brewery’s winter seasonal. The addition of spices
to the beer makes it a perfect holiday beverage, but these spices are a
traditional ingredient in many Belgian brews. With an alcohol content of
7.2% by volume, about half again as strong as your average beer, Allagash
Grand Cru is just the thing to take the chill off a cold winter eve.
So what is a Grand Cru? It is not a style per se, but rather generally
refers to a special beer that a brewery might offer. Don’t expect one Grand
Cru to be like another, either, because very likely they won’t be. Consider
the sour and full-bodied Rodenbach Grand Cru. This is the most
intense offering in the Rodenbach triumvirate (Rodenbach and Rodenbach
Alexander being the other two offerings), but it is nothing like the
now-defunct Celis Grand Cru or the beer under consideration now,
Allagash Grand Cru.
On February 9,1999 I took the following
tasting notes on Allagash Grand Cru:
Winter seasonal from Allagash. Cloudy orange color,
light head formation formed a nice brussels lace to chase the beer down the
glass. Spicy-yeasty nose. Crisp, slightly citric palate yields a gentle
burnt-candyish character. Lots of musty Belgian horse blanket yeastiness
here leading right into the finish where it becomes more noticeable and
blends nicely with the spices (nutmeg and perhaps cinnamon come to mind)
which are very apparent but not overpowering. Another winner from Allagash.
Although I prefer the dubbel and tripel with a bit of age on them, I like
the Grand Cru young. My sample was exceedingly fresh, having come straight
from the brewery to me. Allagash numbers each batch of their reserve line,
and this is Batch 5 for the Grand Cru.
To best enjoy the full flavor and aroma, I slowly decanted into a
traditional wide-mouthed Belgian beer glass. The carbonation is very heavy,
with a towering head of foam forming in the glass, so much that it was
necessary to allow the beer to settle slightly before adding more.
Allagash Grand Cru pours to a murky burgundy color with a zesty
citric orange nose. The mouthfeel is very rich with a touch of chocolate
that quickly yields to an array of delicious flavors: orange, licorice,
perhaps coriander. The spices increase in the finish, where they join with a
touch of balancing bitterness and a noticeable alcohol warmth.
Allagash recommends serving this beer between 50 and 60 degrees, which is
about the temperature at which I drank it. As it warmed, the spice notes
became more intense, adding even more flavor to an already delicious brew.
This is not a beer you would do well to pass up.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.
(B)=Bottled
(D)=Draft