This could well have been Michael
Jackson's favorite beer. Well, one of his favorite beers
anyway. And no, I'm not talking about the Gloved One. But more on that
later. So why am I talking about Christmas beer, in the middle of August?
Why not? I always have a lot of beer on hand, having two DBRs (Dedicated
Beer Refrigerators) which hold about 2 1/2 cases each and then another few
cases that spill over into the main refrigerator, which my Beloved Barbara
for some crazy reason believes we should keep our food in. Winter seasonal
beers are among my favorite, and I always end up with Christmas brews in the
fridge throughout the year. Come July, a little Christmas in July
celebration is a good way to see how they have been aging out, and sometimes
I stretch the fun all the way through fall to the new holiday season to do
side-by-side tastings.
Many of the winter seasonals are bigger, stronger beers and thus will
generally age out nicely. Geary's Hampshire Ale, from the D.L. Geary Brewing
Company in Portland, Maine, is no exception. This is a big, malty, delicious
ale brewed in the Old Ale/Winter warmer style. I was discussing this beer
with Michael Jackson some years ago at a beer dinner and he indicated at the
time that this was one of his favorite American beers. He gives it high
marks in his Pocket Guide to Beer (***), and praises it in the World Beer
Hunter CD-Rom. There's good reason for this, I've never come across a
domestically brewed beer in the style that I prefer to this one. The MJ in
question, of course, is the dean of beer writers in the world.
Hampshire is a deep ruby in color with a gentle head formation and a rich
malty nose. The palate is very complex and the beer has improved with six
months of age to it. There's quite a bit of bittersweet chocolatey malt
character here, along with a little buttery diacetyl from the Ringwood yeast
used to ferment it. That yeast also throws a little mushroom character as
well. The hops balance the beer with a subtle but lingering bitterness in
the finish, there's a little alcohol warmth there too. This is a sipping
beer, better suited for after dinner relaxation than being served with a
meal.
I have enjoyed this beer on draft many times sitting in Portland, Maine's
Great Lost Bear multi-tap beer bar. Here are some notes I took during the
winter of 1998 on draught Hampshire: With it's deep amber color and rich,
distinctive Ringwood yeast flavor, this year's draft seems to me the most
complex Hampshire yet. Strong notes of rum-raisin and plum-pudding shine
against a rich malty backdrop with a notable butteriness, and a balancing
hop finish.
Who says such great beers as this need be drunk only during the holidays?
Apparently not David Geary. It would seem he agrees with me, and now
Hampshire Special Ale is a year-round beer, happy news indeed for beer
lovers far and wide.
And remember, try a new beer today, and drink outside the box.
*Pricing data accurate at time of review or latest update. For
reference only, based on actual price paid by reviewer.